Friday, November 16, 2007

Kunming: The City of Eternal Spring

It is a warm day, sunny and mostly peaceful, here in Kunming. I am sitting in a coffee shop, my husband across from me, no doubt working on putting some fusion of his heart and mind on paper. Offhand, I can count about five other foreigners in this coffee shop, not that that's a normal sight, but it gives you an idea of the concentration of foreigners in this city.

Kunming is called "the city of eternal spring" by the locals. Since it's cozy to the equator, it tends to be fairly warm most of the year around, but being at a higher elevation keeps it from being stiflingly hot. Thus, a warm day in November with a slight cool breeze is not uncommon. It's not hard to see why foreigners want to live here.

The presence of the big P also seems stronger than other cities we've visited. On many street corners, you can find them set up with little tables and official looking signs and, at times, long clubs or helmets sitting atop them. Even so, most foreigners say that there is much more freedom in this place than most other places in China, including Zhengzhou, where some friends were being "asked" to revisit their homelands. I would love to have a dialogue about the upcoming Olympics and how proud China obviously is to host it, and of the current consequences to their people that the preparation of this event has brought them... but this, as in many things, will have to wait for another time.

We are finally feeling settled in to our apartment. It is a very spacious apartment, more than we could ever use, but it lacked certain things like an oven, a wardrobe/closet and a fridge. As payment for staying there, we offered to buy a fridge and a wardrobe for the apartment. The owner thankfully accepted, so we just got a fridge put in yesterday. 'Tis a glorious thing to have cold milk.

Last week I had a day all to myself, so I set a goal of mopping the apartment. China is generally a dusty place, so this is a bigger feat than at first you might imagine. Think: mopping the moon, and you're getting closer. I was just about to head out to purchase a mop, when I decided to have one more look around to see if I could find one in the apartment already. I had gone through all the rooms, when at last I opened the door to the back deck to find a barely distinguishable mop, stiff with years of dirt and rain coming in through the windowless room. I took one look at that, and thought, 'I think I can give that mop some dignity'. I kinda like to rescue dirty useless things because it reminds me of a very good Friend who did the same for me. So anyway, to make the story short, I proceeded to spend the rest of the day redignifying the mop and then putting it to use. The end result: a floor that didn't turn your socks brown when you walked across it. I do like to make things shine. It was a good time, especially since I have been reading Henri Nouwen's book The Genesee Diary, about, among other things, finding contentment in everyday tasks. I recommend it.

Moving on, there is so much opportunity in this city. Nearly every day I am given more contact info for people wanting to learn English, or some other project that we could help with, more than we could possibly ever do. The first week we stepped back and tried to figure out what our priorities should be. Justin visited a preschool for English and Chinese kids and, not surprisingly, ended up loving it and started helping them twice a week in the mornings. I am teaching a small group of housekeepers who cannot afford to pay for English lessons but who want to learn the language. We meet once a week at our apartment.

There is also so much influence practically plopped onto your lap in this city. John and Mary, a couple in Kunming who have been here for about five years, were invited to give a lecture at a university. They asked if we could help them with the small group part of the lecture, not knowing how many students would show up. As it turned out, approx 350 students showed up for a lecture on what it means to have good character, and the auditorium was silent with students listening eagerly to what John and Mary had to say. I have never before seen a crowd of Chinese people be silent to listen to someone else, unless they were harshly rebuked beforehand. 350 students turned out at a secular university to hear two foreigners talk about having good character, amazing. Where else are you going to get that kind of influence?

At an English corner last week, I also had an attentive audience. Where else will people come who want to talk to an American about what they think of things? We talked of some inconsequential things, to be sure, but the potential is there to lead the conversation to a discussion of values, worldviews, and ethics. Our group, for instance, talked briefly about abrtn, which is generally accepted as common practice in China since the 1-child policy took root.

Healthwise, we are both feeling a little on the down side. I am recovering from about my third cold so far (I have sneezed at least ten times while writing this post), and Justin's left jaw (of all things) has been hurting. Your prayers are appreciated.

It is hard to believe that in one short month, we will be waving goodbye to China. I am so thankful to have come and experienced this country.

Um, these are some random pics... Enjoy.


Kunming

Monday, November 5, 2007

Zhengzhou [jung-JOE]

Sorry for the long absence. Our internet has been sketchy and our time has been full. We are doing well. First off, thank you for praying for my esophagus. It is completely healed with no need for a visit to the doc. I guess I just bruised it when swallowing a malaria pill, but after about a week, it was fine. Stinkin' pills.

Since it's been so long, we're going to have to go back a few weeks to our visit to Shaolin Temple. For those of you who didn't know, Justin has been into karate and kung fu for many years, so when we found out that the ancient center for kung fu was only about 50 miles north of Zhengzhou, we knew that it was a must see. Little did I know that it would turn in to an all day episode of "where in the world is justin boyer". I married a wanderer, folks. But anyway... moving right along. Our sassy Chinese friend Makya offered to let us come with her on a trip to Shaolin Temple. There is a large boarding school for kids wanting to learn kung fu right there on the premises. Most kids start around age 4 and are able to put needles through glass by the time they're about ten. We saw a couple of performances that were pretty unbelievable. Think "Hero" in real life. It was truly impressive. Demonstrations included: a man breaking a steel pipe over his head, a kid putting both of his legs behind his head, and of course, lots of crazy ninja kicks and aerial moves. If the kids stick around long enough then they become full-fledged adult monks who maintain the temple and sell popcorn, I mean ninja knives, during events.

The really interesting thing about Shaolin Temple is that it is also the center for zen Buddhism, whose monks take a vow against violence. All day long we were met with opposing faces of peaceful meditation and inner rage. Very interesting how that plays out. There were several buildings with huge statutes of Buddha in different forms. People would go in and kneel or offer incense to them. Idolatry has always seemed like such an ancient concept to me, or, if it is referenced today, it's always in a more spiritual tone of "what is your personal idol?" It was pretty weird to be there with a bunch of idols and their worshippers, the real thing. I would like to learn more about Buddhism when we get back.

Our experience at Shaolin is best re-told through pictures, so take a gander.


Shaolin Temple

The school that I was teaching at invited us to stay until the end of December to finish out the semester. This was very encouraging for me to hear, as a pretty green teacher. While we didn't feel that it would be right to totally ditch Ju and the gang, we were really enjoying our time there, so we offered that we could stay for one additional week, which meant that we could help out with the Halloween party and hang out with students who had never made a costume, carved a pumpkin, or bobbed for apples in their life. It also meant that we had to think of our own costumes. They accepted.

Now, some guys want to be something cool like spiderman or superman for Halloween. That just wouldn't do for Justin. No, no... my husband wanted to wrap toilet paper around himself, put a plunger up his sleeve like a pirate's crook, wear a toilet seat on his chest, and call himself Mr. Nobody from the Toilet Patrol. The end result was something more along the lines of a KKK outfit, since no proper outfit is complete without a (toilet paper) mask. It's a real shame that we didn't get a good picture of it.

I, of course, was a cat, what else?

Later on in the week, the students asked us to go bowling with them and, on a separate trip, to join them for KTV (karaoke). It was so funny. We had the most enthusiastic audience we've ever had for our duet to "My Heart Will Go On". Truly a great group of students.

One of the best things about Zhengzhou was connecting with the students, and watching Justin make friends with them too. We were walking back to our apartment one day with some students. I was walking with David, and Justin, walking ahead, was with Lee. David asked when we were leaving and I told him that we would leave in a couple of days. He, being surprised, said, "What?! But... I think I love this guy!" That pretty much sums up the reaction to Justin as a whole. I cannot tell you the grief we were given for leaving those students.

We came to Zhengzhou not knowing anyone. When we left, we felt like we were leaving friends behind, and it was a bit painful even for being there such a short amount of time.

Here are some pictures from our time with the students.


ESLI-ZZ

We are now in Kunming and are trying to re-adjust to life with other foreigners. More on that later.